The most common type of photographic film. You’ll find it on the shelves in supermarkets and can probably develop it there too. Loads of Lomography cameras take 35mm film; a few of them are the LC-A+, LC-Wide, LomoKino, Spinner 360°, Diana Mini and Sprocket Rocket. Usually you can take 36 photos on each 35mm film.
This is the opening that determines how much light hits the film. You can find the aperture between the lens and the film which, depending on your camera, can usually be made smaller or larger manually and with this determine how much light reaches the film.
Lamps give off a different kind of light to the sun and to offset this there are ‘artificial light’ films available – often also referred to as ‘Tungsten’. If you use these films in normal daylight however, you’ll get pictures with a bluish glow.
Black and White
The grandfather of all films. But black and white film is by no means old-fashioned - in fact it continues to be developed in a lot of places. The film is not color-blind but instead it generates a shade of grey for every shade of color. This is a true classic with style that’s not only easy to handle but that also produces powerful results. It’s also very popular with people who like to develop their films themselves. It comes in both 35mm and 120 (Medium Format).
Recognizable by the orange masking; with this film the picture appears as a negative image on the film. Light becomes dark, dark becomes light and instead of the original colors, you can actually see the opposite colors. It’s one of the most frequently used films because it’s very good at producing good exposures, great colors and sharp images. On top of this, it’s also perfect for using in situations where there is little light.
Also known as X-Pro. Instead of dipping your slide film in the slide film soup, you can have it developed in the color negative soup. When you do this something wonderful happens; it mutates into color negative film. But this is no ordinary color negative film, it’s one with extra-strong colors and contrast!
Most films are designed for daylight, and the specialist films for indoors can be found under "Artificial Light".
The picture is on the film but is still not visible as long as the film is still sensitive to light. To make the picture visible and long-lasting, it needs to submerged in a dark bath of chemicals. After it’s been dried you can then go about getting your prints and have your pictures scanned.
You're most likely to bump into this when talking about Black and White Films. This is when you process your film yourself in a film development tank. The first step happens in the dark; then as soon as the film is in the light-proof development tank, you can turn the lights back on. It requires a little practice to put the film in the tank, but it can also be a lot of fun! See D.I.Y. Processing.
Film has an expiry date and after this has been passed (usually after 2 years) it becomes ‘expired’. This doesn’t necessarily mean that it’s bad, it just means that the colors that the manufacturer promised are no longer guaranteed. But who wants that anyway?
The basic rule is that the longer you expose the film, the more light will reach it. The exposure is the point at which the image is actually photographed. In a similar way to the aperture, the length of the exposure determines how much light hits the film. Exposure times which are too long can sometimes lead to a blurry picture. On these occasions, a tripod or a steady surface can come in useful to keep the camera steady during the period of exposure.
The darker it is, then the longer you’ll need to expose the picture; the lighter it is, the shorter. It’s all about finding the right balance together with the aperture, to ensure that enough light reaches the film but that at the same time, the exposure time is kept short enough so that the resulting photograph isn’t blurry.
If the lens is the eye of the camera, then the film is the optical nerve. It’s made out of a light-sensitive material laid on a layer of polyester or acetate. This method has been continually improved for over 160 years. The most used formats of film today are 35mm and 120 (which is sometimes known as roll film or medium-format film.)
Think of this as 35mm film’s home. It protects the film from unwanted light and dust.
Color Negative, Black and White Negative, Slide and Infra-Red.
The lower the sensitivity of a film, then the more light it needs to deliver you a great picture. 100 ISO film needs twice as much light as 400 ISO and 800 ISO needs half as much light as 400 ISO. If the sun is shining, then a 100 ISO film is sure to serve you well. If it’s cloudy then go for a 400 ISO. If the weather outside is particularly grey, then you know it’s time to unleash the 800 ISO.
The lower the sensitivity of a film is, then the finer its texture, resolution and sharpness will be.
Normal film sees the world in more or less the same way as you do, but infrared film sees a lot more. Depending on the film, sensitivity can go up to 800nm. With the right film and the right exposure time, you can end up with fairy-tale results. Water becomes black, green leaves become white and everything becomes magical. The usual way to get infrared photos is to attach an infrared filter to your camera. Unfortunately there are only black and white infrared films left; the legendary color infrared films only exist as left-over stock and can be picked up for a collectors price.
The type of film used in Instant Cameras. Instant film is discharged from the camera after the photo has been taken and develops by itself in front of your eyes – A clever kind of film indeed!
The place where the film is developed and the prints are picked up.
LomoChrome Purple XR 100-400 is a color negative film with exciting and surprising color effects. Natural color tones get transformed into new tones of a broader color spectrum, creating astonishing photo results!
Blue becomes green, green becomes purple, pink becomes yellow. Red tones stay red, which keeps natural skin color quite natural. To reinforce the color transformation, the spectrum’s sensitivity almost reaches infrared levels. The color change can be altered depending on your chosen ISO settings. For example, green tones will become a shiny purple when you use an ISO 100 setting, but with an ISO 400 setting greens will instead become a darker indigo. This is a great way to explore unlimited color creativity!
The sensitivity of the film is ISO 400 (27°). Its high flexibility in terms of light sensitivity also allows you to set your camera to ISO 200 (24°) and ISO 100 (21°) - This gives you greater flexibility in different lighting conditions. LomoChrome Purple XR 100-400 photos are distinctive because of their bright colors and sharp images with fine grain.
Development & Storage
The film should be developed with the standard C-41 process. Storage at 20 °C is fine. The lifetime of the film can be extended by storing the film in the fridge (under 10°C) and is therefore recommended. We don’t advise to expose the film to temperatures above 30°C for too long unnecessarily.
- Color negative
- ISO 100 (21°) to ISO 400 (27°)
- 35mm and 120 formats
- It is recommended to store the film in a fridge (under 10°C/50°F)
This is the actual photograph!
This type of film doesn’t have a cartridge and is only protected by the light-proof backing paper. Due to the larger surface, pictures on this film taken with the correct exposure can sometimes be more impressive than those taken on 35mm film.
For many people, this is the King of Films. When the exposure is just right, you can get an exact replication of reality. Even more exciting is the possibility of developing the film as Color Negative. See Cross Processing.
35mm film has tiny holes at the top and the bottom of the film which grip on to the sprocket teeth of the camera – This is how the film is transported through the camera. With some Lomography cameras such as the Sprocket Rocket and Spinner 360° you can actually use this part of the film in your pictures. Normally this part of the film is not exposed however and doesn’t appear on your prints.
A formula that allows you to easily calculate exposure times.